PHOTOGRAPHY GUIDE
How to Photograph the Northern Lights
The aurora is faint, fast-moving and almost invisible to phone cameras on auto. This guide covers the exact camera settings, lenses and technique our guides use every clear night in Rovaniemi — and how recent phones can manage too. New to the aurora? Start with what the northern lights are and how they form.
READING THE SETTINGS
Aurora Camera Settings — Quick Reference
Starting points for a typical display. Adjust to the conditions — a bright, fast aurora may only need 3 seconds at ISO 800.
Shorter for fast, bright aurora; longer when faint and still.
Start at 1600 and raise it if the display looks too dark.
As wide as the lens allows — the single biggest factor.
Autofocus hunts in the dark. Set to infinity and lock it.
Non-negotiable. Even 5 s handheld will blur.
Auto and semi-auto modes fail in near-darkness.
CAMERA BODY
Mirrorless or DSLR for the Aurora?
Both can capture the northern lights well, but mirrorless bodies have the edge in near-darkness — live exposure preview, silent shutter and strong high-ISO performance.
- Cleaner high-ISO on recent models
- Electronic viewfinder previews exposure live
- Silent shutter — no vibration
- Focus peaking makes infinity focus easy
- Lighter to handle with gloves
- Optical viewfinder is dark — use live view
- Mirror slap can shake long exposures
- Fully capable with a fast wide prime
- Excellent f/1.4 lens options exist
- Often better battery life in cold
Our guides shoot Sony α7 mirrorless bodies with f/1.4–f/1.8 prime lenses — clean results at ISO 1600–2000 even on faint nights. Good alternatives: Nikon Z, Canon R, Fujifilm X-T. Capable DSLRs: Nikon D750/D810, Canon 6D Mark II.
LENSES
The Lens Matters More Than the Camera Body
Aperture decides how much light reaches the sensor. An f/1.4 lens gathers four times more light than f/2.8 — meaning shorter exposures and far less motion blur when the aurora dances.
Fast prime lenses. Maximum light, sharpest results. 14–24mm is ideal.
Many quality zooms. Very workable — just nudge ISO up a little.
Kit-lens territory. Fine on bright nights; risks blur at high ISO.
Telephoto zooms can’t gather enough light without extreme, noisy ISO.
Focal length: 14–24mm (full-frame equivalent) is the sweet spot — wide enough for the full aurora band and the landscape below. 35mm is about the longest you’d want.
TECHNIQUE
Focus, Exposure and Getting a Sharp Shot
Turn autofocus off and set the focus ring to ∞. Shoot a bright star and zoom into the preview — a sharp point means you’re set.
Pressing the shutter shakes the camera. A 2-second self-timer or remote lets the vibration settle before the exposure begins.
Review the histogram, not the screen — cold dims the LCD and fools your eye. Adjust ISO or shutter from what it shows.
3200–4000K keeps the sky a natural cool tone. Auto white balance adds yellow. Shoot RAW if you can, to fine-tune later.
Cold drains batteries fast — capacity can halve below −15°C. Keep a spare warm in an inside pocket.
During strong activity, drop to 2–5 s and raise ISO to 3200–6400 to freeze the shapes. A long exposure of fast aurora just smears to green fog.
PHONE CAMERAS
Can You Photograph the Aurora With a Phone?
Recent flagship phones — iPhone 15 Pro, Samsung Galaxy S24, Google Pixel 8 — can capture the northern lights using Night mode. Here is how to give yourself the best chance.
Select Night mode, or a dedicated Astrophotography mode if your phone has one. It runs a multi-second exposure automatically.
Rest the phone on a rock, snowbank or your pack — ideally a tripod with a phone mount. Stabilisation alone is not enough at 5–10 seconds.
Set shutter to 5–10 s, ISO 800–1600 and focus to infinity for more control than the automatic Night-mode stack.
Autofocus locks onto foreground snow. Tap the sky to set focus and exposure there before the shot starts.
FAQ
Northern Lights Photography FAQ
- What camera settings do I use for the northern lights?
- Start in full manual: shutter 5–15 seconds, ISO 1600–3200, aperture as wide as your lens allows (f/1.4–f/2.8), and focus set manually to infinity. Adjust from there based on how bright the display is.
- Can you photograph the northern lights with a phone?
- Yes — recent iPhone, Samsung and Pixel models capture the aurora in Night or Astro mode. Steady the phone on something solid and expose for 5–10 seconds. Results won’t match a mirrorless camera with a fast lens, but they are usable.
- Do I need a tripod to photograph the aurora?
- Yes, always. Aurora photos need multi-second exposures, and nothing handheld stays sharp that long. A small travel tripod is enough.
- What ISO is best for the northern lights?
- ISO 1600 is a good starting point. Raise it toward 3200–6400 when the aurora is faint or moving fast and you need a shorter shutter; lower it toward 800 on a very bright display to cut noise.
- What is the best lens for aurora photography?
- A wide, fast prime — 14–24mm at f/1.4–f/1.8. Wide framing captures the full band of light and the landscape, and the fast aperture lets in enough light to freeze movement.
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